ABU JANI SANDEEP KHOSLA
Designers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla have been instrumental in building and adding to the Indian fashion industry; the duo goes back as far as 1986. After a five-year hiatus, the designers showed in Delhi opening the BMW India Bridal Fashion Week 2015.
The collection titled ‘Varanasi’ that was showcased at opening night comes from their journey to holy city. The set was made to recreate the architecture and feel of the ghats.
The underlying theme of the show was the play on the word ‘age’. Sonam Kapoor opened the night by serenading the crowds to Lana Del Rey’s melancholic ‘Young and Beautiful’. Were the designers putting forth the question “Will you still love me, when I’m no longer young and beautiful?” maybe so, their friends in the front row clearly have no plans to leave their side.
The colour story of the line went from dawn to dusk—starting with their signature chikan karri pieces studded with tone on tone Swarovski crystals to heavier pieces in pale gold khadi silks embroidered with goata. Then came the sun colours in many hues of pinks, oranges ending in warm reds all embellished in rich Gresham and zardozi.
There was more nostalgia in the show than just the music—there were hints of puff sleeves, a Marilyn Monroe worthy wind machine that made a cloud out of an organza lehenga and the return to the label’s leitmotif — the lotus.
While the length of the lehengas didn’t allow any study into the footwear for women, the groom wore embroidered organza espadrilles—a forerunner in the category of wedding footwear.
The bride wore red: Sonam Kapoor descended the ramp for the second time as the opulent bride in a heavy duty red and gold embroidered lehenga and choli. Her ability to twirl whilst balancing the weight of the outfit was commendable.